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These are the main types of needles in use by stitchers and, of course, we carry them all! So, now, you know your uses, but what other things are there to think about in needles. Most needles are a composite metal that is nickel plated. If you are allergic to nickel or you find your needles are “blackening” or corroding quickly, you may want to check out either gold or platinum plated needles. Even if you don’t have nickel reactions, gold and platinum needles can be a good choice for their smooth movement through your fabric. However, I have found that a well manufactured needle, doesn’t need to be of precious metals. That is why we are now proud to carry needles made by Bohin. Made in France, Bohin needles just feel wonderful in the hand and stitch like a dream. I really enjoy these needles, but you may prefer John James, Mary Arden, or Richard Hemming & Sons, all of which are great needles and popular with stitchers all over the world. What ever needle you use, make sure that it is the right size for the job you are doing. Your needle should be just a tad bigger than your thread for most needlework. This allows the needle to push the ground fibers away so that your thread will pass smoothly through the fabric. Too small a needle and you will be fighting the ground fabric or canvas. Too big a needle and you will leave very noticeable holes and may even weaken the fabric. And, remember, the higher the size (22, 24, 26), the smaller the needle. So, a size 3 sharp will be a bigger needle than a size 9 or 10 which are very fine. This week’s stitch is a Variation on the Scotch stitch:
Bibliography (I did need a little help on some of my definitions):
I was going to blog about Crewel work last week and well, you can see how well that went. I did get many of my crewel work kits on line so that you, dear reader, would have some cool things to inspire you, but actually sitting down and writing just proved impossible, because, as usual, uploading the crewel kits led to uploading Hand dyed Wools and Weavers cloth, which then led to uploading most of the Weeks Dye Works Flosses. OK…I will admit that my thought processes don’t always work in the most normal, linear fashion, but what can I say, I was having an interesting week. So, here I am trying to find something interesting to say about crewel work that you haven’t heard a thousand times and isn’t just a product placement thing. Really, no one likes the Aditorial, except for Ad execs! All I can say is that Crewel work is my first love in embroidery. Oh, yeah, I have crushes on Stumpwork and Goldwork. I flirt with cross stitch and needlepoint. But there is just something elemental about Crewel embroidery. Linen and wool work so well together and create some magnificent results. It is unfortunate that current trends in needlework are just working against crewel. I think too many of us have the image of those kits from the 70’s. All that gold and olive thread with big tired-looking sunflowers and sad clowns, just saying “You too can stitch this ugly thing!”. And yet, I know that there were some awesome kits in the 70’s and early 80’s. How? you ask. Well, I know because I have examples of my Grandmother’s work. Grandma Louise loved Crewel work, but in her later years had moved away from needle arts. I can only guess why though close to her death it was her eyesight. When I had opened Krazy Kat Fiberhaus, she let me take several of her framed and stitched pieces that she had in storage and use them as models. They were awesome! The color schemes were definitely from those detested decades, but the designs were timeless and her skill impeccable. She really inspired me to look for great designs! Crewelwork, or Crewel Embroidery, refers to the Crewel, or worsted wool, yarn that is used in the stitching. Traditionally, crewelwork is done with wool on a linen ground. There are several debates going whether linen twill is the only ground for “true” Crewelwork or if any sturdy linen can be used. I won’t go into those. I have seen wonderful pieces done with different linens, but I don’t want to get into the semantics of the whole thing. I will say that if you are going to use Linen Twill remember that there is a definite right side and wrong side. The right side is the side with the heavier ridges in the weave. The direction of the diagonal lines are another subject of debate, I have heard that the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) certification program requires the diagonal lines to run from the bottom Left to the top right. Which I have been led to believe is opposite the Embroiderer’s Guild of America’s (EGA) master’s program on Crewel Embroidery. Just like in life, folks just can’t agree on anything. But I think we can all say that Crewelwork is a fun and relaxing artform! This week’s stitch is a stitch used in Cewelwork! Long and Short stitch gets its name from the first row which is worked long and short. The rest of the stitches are long but bob up and down based on where they hit the prior row. It is a wonderful stitch for doing those beautiful shadings!  Diagram for the Long and Short stitch... My thanks to Carrie Noess for her quick answer to my stupid questions. If anything is wrong, blame me not her;-) Check out our Wool threads by Rainbow Gallery, Gloriana, and the Gentle Arts. All are appropriate for Crewel work. Or if you need a little more structure, check out our kits by the Crewelwork Co and Tapistree! When I am doing stitching demos at fairs and shows, folks are always surprised to see me using my laying tool. “What’s that tool you are using?” or “Why do you use that?”, they often ask. I love using my laying tools to get the best results for my stitching. For those new to the concept, a laying tool is a long stick or stilleto that is used to smooth your stitching. Why use it? Well, here are some good reasons: 1. When using multiple strands, it helps to lay them side by side. Every stitcher would do well to have a laying tool in their sewing basket. Now, obviously, if you do all your work in hand and not on a frame, you probably will not want a laying tool,at this time, but there are many reasons to start working with frame that I won’t go into right now. Instead, you might want to see what Jay Patterson has to say here. There are several types of laying tools and some are designed for specific uses. A tekobari is squared with little to no tapering, just perfect for Japanese Embroidery. A Mellore is used for doing metal work embroidery, it is short and squat and flat. Generally though, laying tools are tapered into sharp points. They come in metal, bone, wood or composites. They can be very utilitarian or rather decorative. They are not an awl. Your Laying tool must be very smooth so as not to snag your threads and should not have too much of a taper to the point or your threads will not lay even. Some folks prefer a shorter laying tool, like Rainbow Gallery’s Best Laying Tool or BLT, while others need some length. My favorite is the Rainbow Laying Tool from Rainbow Gallery, but I, also, enjoy my Zecca Stilleto. When using a laying tool, you are going to be stitching two handed. It helps to have a frame stand either a floor stand or a lap/table stand. However, if you lean your work against a table or a stiff pillow that works too. Here is a quick tutorial that I made up for you: Now, no picking on my film and script quality! There isn’t any, but I think you get my gist. I am going to try making up more demos for you in the future. So, keep on stitching. This week’s stitch guide is:  Basketweave Basketweave, or Tent stitch, is a basic in needlepoint. Working on the diagonal, you work up the warp/horizontal threads, or ladders, and down the weft/vertical threads, the pipes. This stitch more stable than Continental stitch and will require less blocking when you are finished. I am truly sorry that I have been lax in blogging. so, I am going to put a reminder on my computer to take the time to blog, at least, once a week. I can’t say that you will be that impressed with my blogs, but they will be there. Over the past few months, I have been enjoying the fun of moving a 1250 sq ft shop into 2 rooms of my house. It has been a bit of a challenge and I, now, have to admit that I will not be able to recreate my shop in the house. What I can do is have a functioning web business. So, I am focused on trying to set up the “Store” room in as organized a fashion as time and money will allow. One happy note, I saw so many of our wonderful customers at the Sewing & Stitchery Expo. I really miss you guys, but I am sure that we will have some time in the future to enjoy each others’ company. Keep stitching and I will try to keep blogging. Oh, and here is a stitch to try out. The T-stitch is generally used in needlepoint, but it could be a rather fun way to add a little texture to a variety of needle techniques:
T-stitch is a great fill stitch, especially when you are working a hand-painted canvases that has some wonderful shading. |
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